Dodecanese

Greece — Dodecanese, Sporades & North Aegean

Greece

The eastern and northern Aegean is Greece's longest cruising frontier: the Dodecanese chain strung along the Turkish coast from Kastellorizo and Rhodes north through Symi, Tilos, Nisyros, Kos, Kalymnos, Leros, Lipsi, Arki and Patmos; the big, green North Aegean islands of Samos, Ikaria, Fourni, Chios, Lesvos and Lemnos; and, across the sea to the west, the pine-covered Northern Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos and the National Marine Park of Alonissos and Northern Sporades) plus Skyros and the sheltered Pagasetic Gulf below Mount Pelion. Charter fleets work out of Kos, Rhodes, Samos, Skiathos and Volos. The Dodecanese give short, varied hops between Knights-era towns, volcanic Nisyros and tiny taverna islets like Marathi and Arki; the North Aegean is quieter, bigger-scale and less chartered; the Sporades offer green, more gently-winded cruising and one of the Mediterranean's best marine parks, home to the Mediterranean monk seal. The northern Dodecanese (Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos and the north coast of Kos) are among the most meltemi-exposed waters in Greece in July and August, while the southern Dodecanese, Sporades and Pagasetic Gulf are more moderate.

Top of the list

1. 1Planitis (Kyra Panagia)Near-landlocked natural harbour inside Zone A of the Alonissos marine park — one of only two places in the park's core where you may anchor overnight.
2. 2Gialos Harbour (Symi)Arguably the most beautiful harbour in Greece: a bowl of pastel neoclassical mansions climbing from the quay to Chorio via the Kali Strata steps.
3. 3Rhodes Medieval Old TownUNESCO-listed walled city of the Knights of St John, a short walk from Mandraki Harbour and Rhodes Marina.
4. 4Kokkinokastro Bay (Alonissos)Red-cliffed bay with clear water and the remains of ancient Ikos; a sailing guide calls it a must-see and worth an overnight in settled weather.
5. 5Panormitis Bay (Symi)Almost-enclosed bay below the 18th-century Panormitis monastery — a calm overnight stop on Symi's south coast.
6. 6Monastery of St John the Theologian (Patmos)Fortress-monastery crowning Chora; with the Cave of the Apocalypse it forms a UNESCO site and the pilgrimage heart of the Dodecanese.
7. 7Stefanos Crater (Nisyros)Walk down into a steaming, sulphur-crusted volcanic crater — the signature day ashore on any Dodecanese charter.
8. 8Marathi AnchorageIslet with a sandy bay, moorings and family tavernas — the classic lazy stop between Patmos, Lipsi and Arki.
9. 9Port Augusta (Arki)Narrow, sheltered inlet with a tiny village quay on one of the least-developed inhabited islands in the chain.
10. 10Vathi Fjord (Kalymnos)Spectacular steep-sided inlet cutting into Kalymnos' east coast, ending at the hamlet of Rina — tricky but unforgettable.
11. 11Lindos BayAnchor beneath the Acropolis of Lindos, with the tiny, near-enclosed St Paul's Bay next door.
12. 12Megisti Harbour (Kastellorizo)Greece's easternmost island: a horseshoe of painted houses facing Kaş in Turkey, and a port for crossing to or from the Turkish coast.
13. 13Blue Cave (Kastellorizo)Low-entranced sea cave on Kastellorizo whose interior glows electric blue.
14. 14Xerokampos Bay (Leros)South-Leros bay that a cruiser describes as very sheltered in northerlies, with taverna moorings — a meltemi bolt-hole.
15. 15Livadia Harbour (Tilos)Yacht-friendly harbour on a quiet, walkers' island, base for the abandoned village of Mikro Chorio.
16. 16Peristera Ancient ShipwreckA 5th-century BCE wreck of thousands of amphorae off Peristera — part of the Alonissos Underwater Museum.
17. 17Skopelos Town HarbourAmphitheatre town of whitewashed houses and Byzantine churches; the busiest yacht harbour in the Sporades after Skiathos.
18. 18Steni Vala Harbour (Alonissos)Small fishing-village harbour and the last provisioning stop before the marine park core.
19. 19Fourni Harbour (Fournoi Korseon)Fishermen's archipelago between Samos and Ikaria, famous for lobster tavernas and dozens of ancient shipwrecks.
20. 20Sigri Bay (Lesvos)West-coast bay sheltered from the meltemi, next to the Petrified Forest of Lesvos and its natural history museum.
21. 21Molyvos (Mithymna) HarbourCastle-topped stone village with a small harbour on Lesvos' north coast; base for the Eftalou hot springs.
22. 22Mesta Village (Chios)Labyrinthine fortified mastic village in southern Chios, reachable from the harbour at Limenas Meston.
23. 23Palaio Trikeri HarbourCar-free islet in the Pagasetic Gulf with a tiny harbour and fish tavernas — the calm-water heart of a Volos charter.
24. 24Tristomo Bay (Karpathos)Remote three-mouthed inlet on north Karpathos, noted for good protection from the meltemi.
25. 25Eupalinos Tunnel (Samos)Sixth-century BCE aqueduct tunnel dug from both ends above Pythagorio, a UNESCO site walkable from Samos Marina.

When to go

Charter brokers work the Dodecanese from March to November, with July and August the peak (Plain Sailing, Rhodes). Late May, June and September are the sweet spot: the meltemi is gentler and more predictable, the sea is warm and harbours less crowded (Yachtwarriors). By month (Filovent): the meltemi is occasional in May (Force 3–4), moderate in June (F4–5), strong in July (F5–6, gusts 7), peaks in August (F5–7, gusts 8), eases in September (F4–5) and is rare in October. July–August brings packed quays — Rhodes, Symi and Patmos fill early in the afternoon. The Northern Sporades are greener and less windy than the Cyclades, so the summer breeze is usually cooling rather than punishing (anchor.yt), and the Pagasetic Gulf inside the Pelion peninsula is sheltered from the meltemi. Spring (May–June) and autumn (September–October) are the recommended months for the Samos Sea, with fewer meltemi gales and emptier anchorages.

Weather and hazards

The meltemi (etesian) is the dominant summer wind: northerly in the northern Aegean, turning north-westerly towards the Dodecanese. It typically fills in by early afternoon at 15–20 kn, sometimes over 30 kn, usually easing in the evening, but strong spells last several days (anchor.yt). Exposure (Filovent): high in the northern Dodecanese — Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos and the north coast of Kos; moderate in the southern Dodecanese (south Kos, Symi, Rhodes) and in the Sporades. Off Rhodes, summer winds are typically Force 4–5 from the north-west and have reached Force 8; they usually drop at night but can return in the early hours (Plain Sailing). Leeward fall-winds (katabatic gusts) are violent off high islands — Kos is a known example, and Samos' south (leeward) coast can see violent gusts; an orographic cloud over the mountain is a warning sign. Expect steep, short seas in the open channels between Symi, Tilos and Nisyros in a strong meltemi. The Samos (Mycale) Strait between Samos and Turkey, just over 1 nm wide, carries an east-setting current usually of 1–2 kn but at times 3–4 kn, raising overfalls in gusty conditions. Livadia (Tilos) can get meltemi downbursts and is uncomfortable in south-easterlies; Patitiri (Alonissos) suffers swell in the meltemi. Skiathos' runway sits next to the harbour approach and landing aircraft pass close to masts. The Greek–Turkish sea border is close and disputed in places (Samos, Leros, Kalymnos, Kos, Kastellorizo): stay in Greek waters unless properly cleared. Noonsite reports (2016) that Mytilene's east quay may be closed to visitors because of commercial and migrant traffic. Submarine power cables are charted/signed in some anchorages (e.g. Megalos Mourtias, Alonissos) — read the chart before you drop the hook. Winter brings gales from both north and south.

Hurricane season

No tropical cyclone season. The Mediterranean does produce occasional storm-strength cyclones, most often in autumn. Storm Daniel (4–8 September 2023) caused catastrophic flooding in Thessaly, including Volos and the Pelion villages (the Krafsidonas river overflowed in Volos on 6 September), and travel to Skiathos was banned during the storm; the system became a Mediterranean tropical-like cyclone ('Medicane Daniel') after leaving Greece. Watch forecasts closely from September to November.

Entry and clearance

Greece is in the EU and Schengen; non-EU crew must clear immigration at a port of entry and observe the 90/180-day Schengen limit. Ports of entry in this area (Noonsite): Dodecanese — Rhodes (Mandraki), Symi, Kos, Kalymnos, Leros, Patmos and Kastellorizo; North Aegean — Lesvos (Mytilene; a 2018 report also cites Petra, with port police at Molyvos), Chios, Samos (Vathy and Pythagorio) and Lemnos (Myrina); Volos. Kastellorizo's status is contested: Noonsite and CruisersWiki list it as a port of entry, while a recent German yachting article says it is not and that EU owners arriving from Turkey can check in through an agent for a fee — confirm before relying on it. Foreign private yachts need a Transit Log; it is now issued online (e-TL), and one yacht was fined €300 (reported on Noonsite) for failing to apply before arrival. Port police may still ask for a printed copy, plus registration, insurance, crew list, passports and TEPAI proof; some ask for a T2L/MRN document to prove EU VAT status. Crossing to or from Turkey: clear out with Greek customs, passport control and port police at a designated port, hoist the Turkish courtesy flag and report immediately at a Turkish port of entry (e.g. Ayvalık/Dikili, Çeşme, Kuşadası, Didim, Bodrum, Datça, Bozburun, Marmaris, Kaş); on return, clear back in at a Greek port of entry. Mid-passage flag swapping is illegal even though it was once tolerated, and Greece bans firearms and some medicines (e.g. codeine). On arrival from Turkey at Samos (Vathy or Pythagorio), hail the coast guard (Limenarchio) on VHF 12. Charter yachts carry their own papers; Turkish visits need advance permission from the charter company and usually an agent.

Permits and fees

TEPAI (Greek cruising tax) applies to pleasure craft over 7 m: per month, 7–8 m €16, 8–10 m €25, 10–12 m €33, over 12 m €8 per metre; charged by calendar month, minimum one month (AADE e-TEPAI brochure). Pay online before entering Greek waters and keep proof aboard. National Marine Park of Alonissos and Northern Sporades: since 2022 an online ticket (alonissos-tickets.necca.gov.gr) is compulsory to enter Zone A waters (Kyra Panagia/Pelagos, Gioura, Piperi, Psathoura, Skantzoura and nearby islets); Sailing Issues quotes €33.50 per vessel per day/night plus €5.50 per guest per day/night (verify on the portal). Zone A rules: Piperi is a strict reserve; at Kyra Panagia you may anchor only at Planitis, Monastery cove and Agios Petros, overnight only at Planitis and Agios Petros, and land only at the Monastery; at Psathoura anchor and land only in the south bay (Mandraki); at Skantzoura only in Limani bay; keep 1 nm from the Gioura reef; on Alonissos (Zone B) do not approach within 200 m of the coast between Capes Kalamos and Ammoni. Mooring buoys at Spartines (Alonissos) are free and anchoring there is forbidden (since 2024). Harbour dues on municipal quays are modest — e.g. about €0.75 per metre at Myrina, Lemnos, cash, with €5 water/power cards (Sailing Issues) — while Patitiri sells €10/€20 water-and-power cards (2024). Verify locally. Greece's DEKPA document (€30, stamped on each entry and exit) was reported by Sailing Issues.

Tides and currents

Tides are negligible for navigation (a few tens of centimetres); wind and pressure move sea level more than the tide. Currents matter in narrow straits: the Samos (Mycale) Strait sets east-south-east at 1–3 kn and up to 3–4 kn, with overfalls. Official tide tables: Hellenic Navy Hydrographic Service (hnhs.gr). Harmonic prediction stations on tidesatlas.com include Ialysos (Rhodes), Kalymnos, Kasos and Chios (predictions typically within 10–15 cm).

Money

Euro (EUR). Cards are accepted in towns and marinas; carry cash for small-island tavernas, harbour dues (e.g. Myrina is cash only) and water/power cards.

Radio and phones

VHF 16 for distress (Hellenic Coast Guard/JRCC Piraeus). Port authorities commonly work VHF 12 (e.g. Patitiri harbour office in season; Samos coast guard for arrivals from Turkey); Myrina (Lemnos) harbour uses VHF 9 per one guide, 12 per another. Olympia Radio weather broadcasts (Sailing Issues): Rhodes ch 63, Astypalaia ch 23, Chios ch 85, Mytilene ch 01 (bulletins at 6:00 am, 10:00 am, 4:00 pm and 8:00 pm UTC), Lemnos ch 82, Pilio (Volos/Skiathos) ch 60, Sfendami (Thessaloniki) ch 23; gale warnings and forecasts on ch 16 on request. NAVTEX 518 kHz: Limnos (L) covers the Samos Sea, NE and NW Aegean and Central Aegean (about 5:50 am, 9:50 am, 5:50 pm and 9:50 pm UTC); Iraklio (I) covers the Rodos Sea, Karpathio, SE Aegean and Kastellorizo Sea (5:10 am, 9:10 am, 1:10 pm, 5:10 pm, 9:10 pm UTC). Online: HNMS (emy.gr), Poseidon (HCMR) and meteo.gr. Mobile data is good near populated islands; EU roaming applies.

Charter bases

• Kos MarinaKos town, about 1 nm south-east of the old harbour; about 25–30 minutes by taxi from Kos airportKavas Yachting (9 own yachts, 30–54 ft), Greeka, most Kos bareboat, gulet and crewed charters start here (Sailing Issues)
• Rhodes Marina and Mandraki MarinaRhodes town; Rhodes Marina (opened 2016, about 600 berths) and historic Mandraki by the Old Town, both with fuel berths; about 20 minutes from Rhodes airportbrokers such as Plain Sailing place bareboats and catamarans here
• Samos Marina (Pythagorio)South-east Samos near the airport; 280 berths up to 25 mSailing Issues names Samos (Pythagorion Marina) as a main charter base — verify current operators
• Skiathos Marina / Skiathos PortSkiathos town; Sailing Issues calls it the ultimate Sporades charter baseGreeka, brokers such as Helm (sample itinerary from Skiathos Marina)
• Volos MarinaVolos, at the head of the Pagasetic Gulf; better-equipped than Skiathos but farther from the islandsKavas Yachting

Getting there

• Rhodes Diagoras International — RHOMain gateway for Rhodes, Symi and the southern Dodecanese; about 20 minutes by taxi to Mandraki or Rhodes Marina (four-person taxi about €50–60 per Plain Sailing — verify locally).
• Kos Hippocrates International — KGSGateway for the Kos charter fleet; about 25–30 minutes by taxi to Kos Marina.
• Samos Aristarchos — SMINext to Pythagorio and Samos Marina; gateway for Samos, Fourni and Ikaria.
• Skiathos Alexandros Papadiamantis — JSIRunway at the edge of Skiathos town, a short taxi to the marina; seasonal international flights.
• Volos / Nea Anchialos (Central Greece) — VOLSeasonal flights for Volos-based charters and the Pagasetic Gulf.
• Mytilene Odysseas Elytis (Lesvos) — MJTSouth of Mytilene town and its marina.
• Chios Island National — JKHJust south of Chios town.
• Lemnos Hephaestus — LXSDomestic and seasonal flights for Myrina and Moudros.
• Leros — LRSShort strip at Partheni, next to the boatyards; small domestic aircraft from Athens.
• Kalymnos — JKLSmall domestic airport.
• Karpathos — AOKSouth of Pigadia; domestic and seasonal flights.
• Ikaria — JIKDomestic flights from Athens.
• Skyros — SKUDomestic flights; Linaria is the island's port.
• Astypalaia — JTYSmall domestic airport.
• Kastellorizo — KZSSmall strip with links to Rhodes.
• Kasos — KSJSmall strip with island-hopper links.

Charts and guides

• Rod Heikell, Greek Waters Pilot (Imray)
• Imray G32 (Northern Dodecanese and Turkish Ionian coast), G35 (Central Dodecanese, Rhodes, Symi and Carian coast), G25 (Northern Sporades, Pagasetic Gulf/Volos)
• Eagle Ray Greece Sea Guide Vol. IV — East Aegean and Dodecanese (charts included); Eagle Ray also recommended over Heikell for Skopelos' Panormos bay
• Hellenic Navy Hydrographic Service official charts (Greek sheets 31 and 74 for the Pagasetic Gulf); Admiralty 1556 (Volos approaches)
• Sailing Issues island pages and logbooks (Alonissos/Peristera anchorage-by-anchorage, 2024)
• Navily, Noforeignland and Noonsite community harbour reviews

Sample routes

• 7-day Dodecanese loop from Kos (143 nm, Helm sample)Day 1 · Kos airport (KGS) → Kos Marina · 0 nmKos old town, Eleftherias Square, the AsklepionDay 2 · Kos Marina → Pothia Harbour (Kalymnos) · 16 nmSponge shops, climb to Agios Savvas monastery; upwind into the prevailing breezeDay 3 · Pothia Harbour (Kalymnos) → Pali Marina (Nisyros) · 29 nmWind behind you; volcano crater and thermal bathsDay 4 · Pali Marina (Nisyros) → Gialos Harbour (Symi) · 32 nmKali Strata steps to Chorio, neoclassical waterfrontDay 5 · Gialos Harbour (Symi) → Panormitis Bay (Symi) · 12 nmLunch in west-coast inlets, sheltered bay below the monasteryDay 6 · Panormitis Bay (Symi) → Livadia Harbour (Tilos) · 24 nmBeach by the harbour, scooter to Mikro ChorioDay 7 · Livadia Harbour (Tilos) → Kos Marina · 30 nmKos Castle, return the boat
• 7-day Northern Sporades from Skiathos (69 nm, Helm sample)Day 1 · Skiathos airport (JSI) → Skiathos Marina · 0 nmProvisioning and dinner in Skiathos townDay 2 · Skiathos Marina → Panormos Bay (Skopelos) · 10 nmTwo-hour sail; pine-backed beaches; nearby Blo BayDay 3 · Panormos Bay (Skopelos) → Skopelos Town Harbour · 13 nmHilltop kastro, Byzantine churches, Folklore MuseumDay 4 · Skopelos Town Harbour → Peristeri Anchorage (Peristera) · 14 nmUninhabited island off Alonissos; quiet night at anchorDay 5 · Peristeri Anchorage (Peristera) → Steni Vala Harbour (Alonissos) · 5 nmFishing village tavernas; dive trips to the isletsDay 6 · Steni Vala Harbour (Alonissos) → Loutraki Harbour (Skopelos) · 21 nmGlossa village above; Agios Ioannis Kastri chapelDay 7 · Loutraki Harbour (Skopelos) → Skiathos Marina · 6 nmLunch stop at Koukounaries Beach and dinghy into the Strofilia lagoon
• 14-day one-way Kos to Rhodes through the whole Dodecanese chain (nm approximate; legs from Yachtwarriors, Helm and Plain Sailing where marked, others estimated)Day 1 · Kos airport (KGS) → Kos Marina · 0 nmProvision, Kos old townDay 2 · Kos Marina → Pserimos Bay (Avlakia) · 10 nmShort shakedown; sandy bay goes quiet after the day boats leave (Yachtwarriors ~10 nm)Day 3 · Pserimos Bay (Avlakia) → Skala Harbour (Patmos) · 37 nmLeave early before the meltemi fills in; evening walk up to Chora (Yachtwarriors ~30 nm)Day 4 · Skala Harbour (Patmos) → Grikos Bay (Patmos) · 3 nmMonastery of St John and Cave of the Apocalypse in the morning; swim and anchor at Grikos (nm estimated)Day 5 · Grikos Bay (Patmos) → Lipsi Harbour · 10 nmLunch swim at Platis Gialos; village tavernas (Yachtwarriors ~10 nm)Day 6 · Lipsi Harbour → Port Augusta (Arki) · 8 nmSwim stop at Tiganakia's turquoise shallows (nm estimated)Day 7 · Port Augusta (Arki) → Marathi Anchorage · 2 nmLazy beach day, taverna moorings (nm estimated)Day 8 · Marathi Anchorage → Lakki Harbour (Leros) · 15 nm1930s Italian rationalist Lakki; Leros War Museum (nm estimated)Day 9 · Lakki Harbour (Leros) → Pothia Harbour (Kalymnos) · 15 nmSponge-diving heritage, limestone climbing cliffs (Yachtwarriors ~15 nm)Day 10 · Pothia Harbour (Kalymnos) → Pali Marina (Nisyros) · 29 nmDownwind run; evening thermal baths (Helm 29 nm)Day 11 · Pali Marina (Nisyros) → Livadia Harbour (Tilos) · 17 nmMorning in the Stefanos Crater, afternoon sail to Tilos (nm estimated)Day 12 · Livadia Harbour (Tilos) → Panormitis Bay (Symi) · 24 nmMonastery bay (Helm 24 nm, reverse direction)Day 13 · Panormitis Bay (Symi) → Gialos Harbour (Symi) · 12 nmWest-coast coves en route; Kali Strata at sunset (Helm 12 nm)Day 14 · Gialos Harbour (Symi) → Mandraki Harbour (Rhodes) · 25 nmApproach the Old Town walls; refuel and return the boat (Plain Sailing/Yachtwarriors ~25 nm)