Ionian Islands

Greece — Ionian, Saronic & Argolic

Greece

Two very different Greek cruising grounds on either side of the Peloponnese. The Ionian (Corfu, Paxos and Antipaxos, Lefkada and its Inland Sea of Meganisi, Kalamos, Kastos and Atokos, Ithaca, Kefalonia, Zakynthos, plus the Epirus mainland at Parga, Syvota and Preveza) is green, wooded and gentle: short hops, flat water behind Lefkada and Kefalonia, a reliable afternoon NW breeze, and the densest charter fleets in Greece at Lefkas and Corfu. The Saronic and Argolic gulfs sit an hour from Athens: Aegina, Agistri, the volcanic Methana peninsula, Poros and its narrow channel, car-free Hydra and Spetses, Ermioni and Porto Heli, then the long, mountain-walled Argolic Gulf down to Nafplio, Leonidio and Kyparissi. Expect Med mooring (stern- or bows-to with your own anchor) on town quays almost everywhere, ancient sites a short walk or taxi away (Epidavros, Aphaia, Mycenae from Nafplio), and crowded harbours in July–August, when arriving early afternoon is the rule.

Top of the list

1. 1Kioni Harbour (Ithaca)The postcard Ionian harbour — three windmills on the point, tavernas on the quay, long-lines ashore in clear water.
2. 2Fiskardo Harbour (Kefalonia)Venetian-era village that survived the 1953 earthquake; the liveliest and most fought-over quay in the southern Ionian.
3. 3Gaios Harbour (Paxos)A fjord-like harbour hidden behind two islets, with a stern-to quay in the middle of town.
4. 4Lakka Bay (Paxos)Horseshoe bay of turquoise water over sand, sheltered from all but rare northeasterlies.
5. 5Voutoumi Beach (Antipaxos)Some of the most luminous water in Greece; a day anchorage off a white-pebble beach.
6. 6Kastos Harbour (Kastos)Tiny, car-light island with a single village quay and a windmill bar — the Inland Sea at its quietest.
7. 7Kalamos Harbour (Kalamos)Friendly village quay under a wooded mountain, with views across to Kastos and the mainland.
8. 8Port Leone (Kalamos)An anchorage below a village abandoned after the 1953 earthquake; only a church is kept up.
9. 9Abelike Bay (Meganisi)Fjord-like inlets off Vathi with long-lines to olive trees — the classic Inland Sea night at anchor.
10. 10Papanikolis Cave (Meganisi)Sea cave where a WWII submarine hid; visit by dinghy or paddleboard, too deep to anchor off.
11. 11Porto Katsiki Beach (Lefkada)White cliffs over a turquoise beach on Lefkada's exposed west coast — a calm-weather day stop.
12. 12Sivota Bay (Lefkada)Deep, all-round-shelter inlet on south Lefkada lined with tavernas — a safe night in almost anything.
13. 13Kalami BayDurrell's White House on a clear-water NE Corfu bay, with Albania across the strait; one of Corfu's classic anchorages.
14. 14Assos Village & Castle (Kefalonia)Pastel village on an isthmus below a Venetian fortress; anchor off in settled weather.
15. 15Navagio Shipwreck Beach (Zakynthos)The famous wreck in a cliff-ringed cove — best seen from the water in calm conditions.
16. 16Corfu Old Town & Mandraki (Corfu)UNESCO-listed Venetian town with a tiny yacht harbour under the Old Fortress walls.
17. 17Parga Town & Valtos Bay (Parga)Hillside town crowned by a Venetian castle; anchor in Valtos Bay and dinghy round.
18. 18Syvota Islands Anchorages (Epirus)A cluster of lagoon-coloured coves between the mainland and the Syvota islets, minutes from Paxos.
19. 19Hydra Harbour (Hydra)Car-free stone town in an amphitheatre harbour; arrive early for a berth — the Saronic's star.
20. 20Poros Town Quay & Channel (Poros)Clock-tower town on a narrow channel with Russian Bay and Love Bay anchorages close by.
21. 21Perdika Harbour (Aegina)Fishing village of fish tavernas with Moni island's swim-in anchorage opposite.
22. 22Palaia Epidavros Harbour & Sunken CitySheltered harbour near the Asklepios sanctuary and theatre, with a submerged ancient city to snorkel.
23. 23Spetses Old Harbour (Baltiza)Shipbuilding harbour of the island that fought the 1821 revolution, home to the Spetses Classic Yacht Regatta.
24. 24Nafplio Town Quay & BourtziGreece's first capital: Palamidi fortress above, Bourtzi islet castle in the harbour, Mycenae a short taxi away.
25. 25Kyparissi BayRemote Peloponnese bay under huge cliffs, sheltered in the meltemi, a rock-climbing village ashore.

When to go

May to October is the core season; the Ionian's NW maistro sets in reliably from late May to late September. June and September are the sweet spots (warm sea, steady breeze, fewer boats). July–August brings peak heat (mid-30s °C) and crowded harbours — expect to be on the quay by early afternoon. April and October are quieter shoulder months with more rain in the Ionian (which gets more spring rain than most of Greece) and more chance of southerly systems. Winter cruising is possible but many tavernas close and southerly gales are more frequent.

Weather and hazards

IONIAN: the maistro is a mild NW thermal breeze (typically Force 2-5), usually absent before about 11 am, building to a medium breeze through the afternoon and dying before dusk; the water inside Lefkada and Kefalonia is usually flat. Around Lefkada the wind can funnel down the bay by the marina, and charter guides report a sharp evening shift and gust around 6:30 pm. Vasiliki (south Lefkada) is a windsurf venue because its afternoon wind builds fast — guides advise arriving before 2 pm or after 3:30 pm. Thunderstorms are possible in spring and autumn. The Preveza channel (2,700 m long, 60 m wide, nominal 12 m but expect about 5 m from silting) runs currents to about 3 kn, and NW–W winds against the outflow kick up a short chop. SARONIC & ARGOLIC: sheltered from the worst of the Aegean northerlies; early season is usually very calm with occasional light afternoon SE sirocco. The meltemi reaches in from mid-July to late August, typically Force 4–6 NNE–NE, strongest between Methana and Attica and toward Cape Sounion, weaker near Poros and Methana. In the Argolic Gulf, Nafplio's summer pattern is a NW land breeze overnight and a SE sea breeze from late morning into the evening, and strong NW gusts fall off the mountains at Astros. Ferry and commercial traffic is heavy around Piraeus and the Saronic; weekend charter crowding is the norm at Aegina, Agistri and Poros. Large ferry wakes at Hydra and Poros. Anchors fouling other anchors on crowded Med-moor quays is the commonest charter mishap — set your chain with care and use a tripline in rocky anchorages.

Hurricane season

No tropical cyclone season. The Mediterranean does produce occasional 'medicanes' (Mediterranean tropical-like cyclones), most often in autumn. Medicane Ianos made landfall in SW Greece on 18 September 2020 with gusts to 195 km/h on Kefalonia and Zakynthos, record rain on Kefalonia, damage on Ithaca and storm surge at Lefkada — watch forecasts closely from September to November. October brings gustier winds and squalls; winter brings southerly gales and occasional strong northerlies.

Entry and clearance

Greece is in the EU and Schengen. Non-EU crew must clear immigration at a port of entry and watch the Schengen 90/180-day limit. Ports of entry in this area (per Noonsite): Corfu Port, Gouvia (Corfu), Lefkas, Preveza, Argostoli (Kefalonia), Zakynthos, Piraeus, Glyfada, Vouliagmeni and Nafplio. Foreign private recreational yachts need a Transit Log, now issued digitally through the myAADE portal; since 2025 some ports require you to apply online before arrival, and Noonsite reported a €300 fine (2025) for not doing so — apply before you sail in. Non-EU-flagged yachts owned by non-EU residents receive a limited-validity log; EU-VAT-paid yachts may need proof such as a T2L. Port police still commonly ask to see the printed log, insurance, crew list, TEPAI receipt and registration. Many harbours (for example Hydra) want papers stamped within 24 hours of arrival. Charter yachts carry their own papers; the skipper needs an accepted sailing licence (e.g. ICC/RYA Day Skipper) and usually a second crew member with experience.

Permits and fees

TEPAI (Greek cruising tax) applies to private and charter pleasure craft over 7 m in Greek waters. Monthly rates per the AADE e-TEPAI brochures (EN/DE/IT/TR versions agree; undated, so verify locally): 7–8 m €16, 8–10 m €25, 10–12 m €33, over 12 m €8 per metre; charged for a minimum of one month; pay online via e-TEPAI before entering Greek waters and keep proof on board (the AADE brochure lists fines by length band of €190, €300, €400 and €1,100; verify locally). Commercial boats over 12 m get cumulative discounts (20% for year-round stay, 25% for exclusively commercial use). Harbour dues on town quays are modest and collected by the municipality or port police (e.g. reports of €10–20 a night at Perdika, 2024–25 — verify locally); marinas are much higher (Porto Heli about €120/night for 13 m, per a Noforeignland review — verify locally). Zakynthos National Marine Park (Laganas Bay) restricts boats: Zone A closed to navigation 1 May–31 October, a 6 kn speed limit in Zones B and C, and a turtle-observation code in Zone B (check the park agency for anchoring rules before stopping in the bay). Skorpios (off Nidri) is private and guarded; the channel between Skorpios and Sparti is closed to boats.

Tides and currents

Tides are negligible for navigation — typically a few tens of centimetres in the Ionian (30-60 cm at most), though wind and pressure can raise or drop sea level more than the tide (Palaia Epidavros can vary over 1 m; Tolo rises in SW winds). Currents matter in a few narrow places: the Preveza channel (to about 3 kn, reversing roughly every six hours; outflow to about 3.5 kn in northerlies, inflow about 2.5 kn in southerlies), the Lefkas canal, and the Poros channel. Official tide tables: Hellenic Navy Hydrographic Service (hnhs.gr). Harmonic predictions (FES2022 model, stated accuracy 10-15 cm / 5-10 minutes) for Greek stations including Corfu (Kerkyra) at tidesatlas.com.

Money

Euro (EUR). Cards widely accepted in towns and marinas; carry cash for small-island tavernas, harbour dues and port police fees.

Radio and phones

VHF 16 for distress (Hellenic Coast Guard/JRCC Piraeus keep watch); many port authorities work VHF 12 (e.g. Preveza harbour office before entering the channel; Nafplio harbour master VHF 12/18). Olympia Radio pre-recorded weather in Greek and English on working channels: Corfu ch 02, Kefalonia ch 27, Patras ch 85, Kythira ch 85, Petalidi ch 83, Parnitha (Athens/Saronic) ch 25; gale warnings and forecasts on ch 16 on request. NAVTEX 518 kHz: Kerkyra (C) covers the Ionian at 5:40 am, 9:40 am, 1:40 pm, 5:40 pm and 9:40 pm UTC; Iraklio (I) and Limnos (L) cover the Saronic. Online: HNMS (emy.gr) marine forecasts, Poseidon (HCMR) and meteo.gr. Mobile data (Cosmote, Vodafone, Nova) is good near all populated islands; EU roaming applies.

Charter bases

• Lefkas Marina (D-Marin Lefkas)Lefkada town, on the Lefkas canalSunsail, The Moorings, Sun Charter, many independents
• NidriEast coast of Lefkada, Inland SeaFlotilla and assisted-bareboat operators
• Gouvia MarinaCorfu, 5 km north of Corfu townThe Moorings, Sunsail, many independents
• Preveza Marina / Cleopatra Marina (Aktio)Preveza channel, beside Aktion airport (PVK)Independent operators
• Alimos (Kalamaki) MarinaAthens southern suburbs, the largest marina in GreeceDream Yacht Charter, Prima Yachting, most Athens charter fleets
• Zea MarinaPiraeus, AthensThe Moorings, Sunsail
• Olympic Marina, LavrioSE Attica, near Cape SounionThe Moorings (since 2011), independents

Getting there

• Corfu Ioannis Kapodistrias International — CFUGateway for Corfu, Paxos and the Epirus coast; Gouvia Marina is a short taxi north.
• Aktion National Airport (Preveza) — PVKGateway for Lefkada and the Inland Sea; about 20 km / 20-30 minutes by road to Lefkada (taxi quoted around €25-30 in a charter guide — verify locally). Many UK charter flights arrive on Sundays.
• Kefalonia International (Argostoli) — EFLFor Kefalonia and Ithaca; connections onward by ferry from Sami or Poros.
• Zakynthos International — ZTHFor Zakynthos; ferries to Kyllini on the Peloponnese.
• Athens International Eleftherios Venizelos — ATHFor Alimos, Zea and Lavrio charter bases and all Saronic/Argolic cruising; also domestic connections to the Ionian airports.

Charts and guides

• Rod Heikell, Ionian (Imray) — the standard pilot for Corfu to Zakynthos
• Greek Waters Pilot (Heikell, Imray)
• West Aegean (Imray) — Saronic and Argolic gulfs
• Imray G11 North Ionian, G12 South Ionian, G121 Inland Sea charts
• Eagle Ray Sea Guide III (Ionian)
• YACHT 'Ionian Sea' charter guide, 4th edition (2023)
• Hellenic Navy Hydrographic Service official charts
• British Admiralty Chart 1031 (Argolic Gulf)
• Navily and Noforeignland community anchorage reviews

Sample routes

• 7-day Southern Ionian loop from Lefkas (Inland Sea)Day 1 · Aktion airport (PVK) → Lefkas Marina (D-Marin Lefkas) · 0 nmTaxi transfer, provision at the supermarket/Lidl, evening in Lefkada townDay 2 · Lefkas Marina (D-Marin Lefkas) → Kalamos Harbour (Kalamos) · 20 nmDown the Inland Sea past Nidri and Skorpios; Kalamos quay, bakery on the hill, views to KastosDay 3 · Kalamos Harbour (Kalamos) → Vathi Harbour (Meganisi) · 10 nmLunch at Port Leone; snorkel the sunken aircraft near Vathi's entrance; long-line in Abelike Bay or the Vathi quayDay 4 · Vathi Harbour (Meganisi) → Kioni Harbour (Ithaca) · 12 nmIthaca's windmill harbour, hillside tavernas, phosphorescent night swimsDay 5 · Kioni Harbour (Ithaca) → Vasiliki Harbour · 13 nmStop at Fiskardo or Foki Bay (Kefalonia); reach Vasiliki before 2 pm or after 3:30 pm to dodge the afternoon blowDay 6 · Vasiliki Harbour → Sivota Bay (Lefkada) · 8 nmSwim stop in Poros (Rouda) Bay; all-round shelter and tavernas in SivotaDay 7 · Sivota Bay (Lefkada) → Lefkas Marina (D-Marin Lefkas) · 16 nmPapanikolis Cave by dinghy, coffee in Nidri, fuel early before the flotillas
• 7-day Northern Ionian from Corfu (Gouvia)Day 1 · Gouvia Marina → Syvota Islands Anchorages (Epirus) · 24 nmSand-bar Bay, Monastery Bay, the gap between Nisis Sivota and Ag Nikolaos; Mourtos villageDay 2 · Syvota Islands Anchorages (Epirus) → Lakka Bay (Paxos) · 11 nmYpapanti sea caves, snorkelling, Lakka villageDay 3 · Lakka Bay (Paxos) → Parga Town & Valtos Bay (Parga) · 13 nmAnchor in Valtos Bay; Venetian castle and old townDay 4 · Parga Town & Valtos Bay (Parga) → Two Rocks Bay (Parga coast) · 7 nmQuiet mainland cove, swimming and snorkellingDay 5 · Two Rocks Bay (Parga coast) → Gaios Harbour (Paxos) · 17 nmLunch at Voutoumi or Vrika on Antipaxos, then stern-to in GaiosDay 6 · Gaios Harbour (Paxos) → Petriti Harbour (Corfu) · 21 nmFishing village and tavernas on Corfu's southeast coastDay 7 · Petriti Harbour (Corfu) → Gouvia Marina · 16 nmPast Corfu Old Town and the Old Fortress back to base
• 7-day Saronic loop from Athens (Kalamaki/Alimos)Day 1 · Athens (arrive ATH) → Alimos (Kalamaki) Marina · 0 nmCheck-in, provisioning, Acropolis if time allowsDay 2 · Alimos (Kalamaki) Marina → Methana Town Harbour · 25 nmVolcanic peninsula, hot springs, crater hike from VathiDay 3 · Methana Town Harbour → Hydra Harbour (Hydra) · 16 nmCar-free town; arrive early for a berth or use MandrakiDay 4 · Hydra Harbour (Hydra) → Spetses Old Harbour (Baltiza) · 16 nmMansions, Bouboulina museum, anchor at Zogeria or in the Old HarbourDay 5 · Spetses Old Harbour (Baltiza) → Poros Town Quay & Channel (Poros) · 27 nmThrough the Hydra strait; Poros channel, clock towerDay 6 · Poros Town Quay & Channel (Poros) → Perdika Harbour (Aegina) · 13 nmTemple of Aphaia, pistachios, swim at Moni islandDay 7 · Perdika Harbour (Aegina) → Alimos (Kalamaki) Marina · 19 nmBack to base for check-out
• 13-14-day Saronic & Argolic Gulf from Athens (Zea)Day 1 · Zea Marina (D-Marin Zea, Piraeus) → Perdika Harbour (Aegina) · 18 nmTemple of Aphaia, Moni islandDay 2 · Perdika Harbour (Aegina) → Hydra Harbour (Hydra) · 22 nmHydra Museum, Spilia and Vlychos swimsDay 3 · Hydra Harbour (Hydra) → Spetses Old Harbour (Baltiza) · 16 nmBouboulina Museum, Agia Marina and Kaiki beachesDay 4 · Spetses Old Harbour (Baltiza) → Nafplio Town Quay & Bourtzi · 26 nmPalamidi fortress, Old Town, Arvanitia beachDay 5 · Nafplio Town Quay & Bourtzi → Tyros Harbour · 21 nmOptional lunch stop at Paralio Astros (castle, beach); evening on the rebuilt Tyros quay, windmills and the Kastro hike; water and power on the quayDay 6 · Tyros Harbour → Kyparissi Bay · 20 nmLunch on the Plaka mole at Leonidio (7 nm) under the red cliffs, then 13 nm on to Kyparissi; pick the berth by wind direction (see the Kyparissi approach)Day 7 · Kyparissi Bay → Monemvasia (outside area) · 19 nmHike to Agios Nikolaos first; medieval rock town (outside this area's scope; optional)Day 8 · Monemvasia (outside area) → Ieraka (Gerakas) Harbour · 9 nmShort hop to the fjord-like inlet; dinghy to the sea cave, Zarax acropolis walkDay 9 · Ieraka (Gerakas) Harbour → Leonidio (Plaka Harbour) · 26 nmLong leg north; Elona Monastery and Leonidio town by taxiDay 10 · Leonidio (Plaka Harbour) → Paralio Astros Harbour · 18 nmFrankish castle, Astros beach; full reprovision in the villageDay 11 · Paralio Astros Harbour → Porto Heli Marina · 20 nmKosta beach, sunken ancient HalieisDay 12 · Porto Heli Marina → Poros Town Quay & Channel (Poros) · 18 nmClock tower, Love BayDay 13 · Poros Town Quay & Channel (Poros) → Palaia Epidavros Harbour & Sunken City · 22 nmAncient theatre and Asklepios sanctuary, sunken city snorkelDay 14 · Palaia Epidavros Harbour & Sunken City → Zea Marina (D-Marin Zea, Piraeus) · 30 nmPiraeus waterfront, Acropolis and museums