Anchorage· Mamitupu· Other Caribbean

Ustupu Anchorage

9° 7.7′ N · 77° 55.8′ W

The largest town in Guna Yala, with more than two thousand people in thatched huts built inches apart and waterways running between them; a fascinating, crowded cultural stop.

Practical

Position 09°07.748'N 077°55.765'W, 5.9 m thick mud between the village and mainland, murky water (SY Balvenie 2012). Approach from the east: huge breakers on the east shore; turn south and parallel the shore, then north with the cemetery island to port and the town dock to starboard; keep off the town dock in north winds (traders tie up there) and off the limestone shelf in south winds (SV Wild Fox). Anchoring permit $15 (2018). Do NOT anchor in Bahía de Masargandi; anchor only behind the main island, and do not go up the rivers without permission or a guide (a $200+ fine may be imposed). Health clinic and airstrip. No photos of people. Small stores; no beer at the bar in 2012. Bad no-see-ums.

Best for

A full-immersion visit to the comarca's biggest town