Western Cyclades in the Meltemi

DAY 1 · Olympic Marine (Lavrio)

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Leave 12:00 pm

The big charter base on the Aegean side of Attica, about 30 minutes by road from Athens airport. You collect the boat, provision and take the briefing here, and Kea is only about 11 nm away. Hail the marina on VHF 9 before entering. Check the meltemi forecast at the briefing and ask the base what their rule is on leaving in strong winds.

• 10:00 amProvision and briefStock up in Lavrio and ask the base about shelter and the weekly forecast pattern before you leave.

14 NM · about 2 h 20 mto Korissia Harbour (Kea)

Korissia Harbour (Kea)

Photo: Zde · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 2:30 pm

Kea's ferry port at the head of Agios Nikolaos Bay, a short first hop that eases you into Cycladic mooring. Berths are stern- or bow-to with your own anchor, on mud that holds well. A strong north-easterly can make the quay uncomfortable, so Vourkari across the bay is the fallback. Bakeries and tavernas are a few steps from the quay.

• 7:30 pmPractice the med-moorDinner on the quay, and a calm evening to get anchor-and-stern-line routine right before the longer legs.

17.5 NM · about 2 h 55 mto Kolona Anchorage & Sandbar (Kythnos)

DAY 2 · Kolona Anchorage & Sandbar (Kythnos)

Photo: FocalPoint · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 2:00 pm

A sand isthmus joins Kythnos to the islet of Agios Loukas, with turquoise water on both sides. Anchor on sand patches and dive to check the hook, because weed is common. It is exposed to the north, so in a meltemi use Fikiada on the far side of the sandbar. It is packed on summer weekends, so arrive by midday.

• 3:00 pmSwim and walk the sandbarThe isthmus is a few steps from the anchorage and the water is clear on both sides.

20.5 NM · about 3 h 25 mto Livadi Harbour Quay (Serifos)

DAY 3 · Livadi Harbour Quay (Serifos)

Photo: Zde · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 3:00 pm

The only real harbour on Serifos, below the white Chora on its crag. Berth stern-to on the mole or in the new basin, and in a meltemi take the inside of the basin. Look out for old concrete blocks under water near the mole. Expect gusts down the bay on windy afternoons.

• 5:00 pmWalk up to the ChoraA steep path and bus road lead to the hilltop village; go late for the light and the evening breeze.

13.5 NM · about 2 h 15 mto Kamares Harbour (Sifnos)

DAY 4 · Kamares Harbour (Sifnos)

Photo: Zde · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 2:00 pm

Sifnos's ferry port at the head of a long west-facing inlet. Only a handful of visiting yachts fit stern-to between the slipway and the breakwater, so come early and keep clear of the ferry berth. The quay has tavernas and pottery shops, and buses run up to Apollonia.

• 7:30 pmDinner on the waterfrontSifnos is known for its cooking; try the local chickpea dishes at a quayside taverna.

22.5 NM · about 3 h 45 mto Adamas Marina (Milos)

DAY 5 · Adamas Marina (Milos)

Photo: Zde · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 3:00 pm

The yacht harbour at the back of Milos's flooded crater, and one of the few places in the western Cyclades where you can sit out a full meltemi at the quay. Protection is excellent from north-west through south-east and poor in westerlies. Ask the harbourmaster for a berth, and watch for ferry wash near the ferry pier. This is the longest open leg so far, so leave early.

• 8:00 amEarly startCross the open water to Milos in the morning, before the afternoon wind builds.

8 NM · about 1 h 20 mto Kleftiko Anchorage

DAY 6 · Kleftiko Anchorage

Photo: Zde · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 3:30 pm

White volcanic cliffs eroded into arches, stacks and sea caves around three small turquoise bays. It is open to the south and has no facilities, so go only in settled weather, and leave early if the forecast turns. Day boats crowd it at midday; arrive late afternoon and stay overnight for the quiet.

• 4:00 pmSnorkel the cavesSome of the clearest water of the trip, with sea caves to swim into in calm conditions.

16.5 NM · about 2 h 45 mto Psathi Harbour (Kimolos)

DAY 7 · Psathi Harbour (Kimolos)

Photo: Roza24 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 1:00 pm

Kimolos's small harbour below the hilltop Chorio, about as quiet as the Cyclades get. It is the best shelter on the island, though it is open to south-easterly winds. Raft alongside the south pier or go stern-to in the new north-east basin. Call on VHF 9 or 12 and avoid the ferry berth on the outside of the mole.

• 5:00 pmWalk to the ChorioA short climb to the white village, then dinner in the harbour.

12 NM · about 2 hto Vathy Bay (Sifnos)

DAY 8 · Vathy Bay (Sifnos)

Photo: Zde · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 2:00 pm

A nearly enclosed bay on Sifnos's south-west coast with the island's best sand beach and a chapel on the spit. Shelter is good all round and holding in sand and weed is reported good. Expect gusts from the north-east, and stay clear of the Taxiarchis church pier, which is shallow. Tavernas sit on the sand.

• 3:00 pmBeach afternoonA short day to rest before the longest leg of the trip.

38.5 NM · about 6 h 25 mto Loutra Marina (Kythnos)

DAY 9 · Loutra Marina (Kythnos)

Photo: FocalPoint · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 4:00 pm

A small spa village harbour on Kythnos's north-east coast, with hot springs a few steps from the quay. It is the island's best meltemi shelter but still crowded in summer. Moor stern-to on the outside of the quay, or double up inside, and lay plenty of chain. Strong north-east or east winds can make it untenable, and the leg here is long and open, so go early.

• 8:00 amEarly start for the longest legPlan a 6 to 7 hour passage, reef before leaving, and keep an eye on the afternoon gusts.
• 6:00 pmThermal springsThe springs are a short walk from the quay.

16.5 NM · about 2 h 45 mto Vourkari Anchorage & Quay (Kea)

DAY 10 · Vourkari Anchorage & Quay (Kea)

Photo: Kevin Stroup · CC BY 3.0

Arrive 2:30 pm

Kea's real yacht harbour, a fishing village on the north-east arm of Agios Nikolaos Bay, with the best meltemi shelter on the island. Moor bow-to at the town quay, because it shoals quickly, or anchor in front of it with at least 40 m of chain. Anchors often cross, so be ready to re-lay. On summer weekends it fills with Athenian boats, so arrive by early afternoon.

• 8:00 pmFarewell dinnerTavernas line the quay; it is the last night before the base.

15 NM · about 2 h 30 mto Olympic Marine (Lavrio)

DAY 11 · Olympic Marine (Lavrio)

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Arrive 12:00 pm

Back at the charter base, about 13 nm from Vourkari. Hail on VHF 9 before entering, refuel at the marina fuel dock and plan to be at your berth with time for check-out. If the meltemi is up, give yourself a margin for the return leg rather than leaving at the last minute.