Marquesas Passage: Nuku Hiva to Fatu Hiva

DAY 1 · Taiohae Bay Anchorage (Nuku Hiva)

Photo: Sémhur (Wikimedia Commons) · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 12:00 pm

The capital bay of the Marquesas, a big drowned crater under green ridges and the only anchorage with a real town ashore. Board, provision and fill up with fuel and water here, because the southern islands have little. Anchor in 9-17 m on mud with a stern anchor to hold the bow into the swell, and keep out of the no-anchoring zone on the west side.

• 2:00 pmProvisioning in TaiohaeStores, a bank and the fuel station are along the waterfront; buy fruit and vegetables early in the day.

4.5 NM · about 45 mto Hakatea Bay (Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva)

DAY 2 · Hakatea Bay (Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva)

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Arrive 10:30 am

A cliff-walled bay an hour's sail west of Taiohae, entered through a narrow but deep gap. It is much calmer than Taiohae, though gusts swirl from all directions. Anchor in 7-9 m on mud in the western part and land the dinghy on the beach, tying it high because the tide floats it off.

• 11:30 amVaipo waterfall hikeAn old paved trail up the Hakaui valley to one of the tallest waterfalls in Polynesia; allow most of the day, wear shoes that can get wet, and skip it if heavy rain is forecast.

29.5 NM · about 4 h 55 mto Hakahau Bay Anchorage (Ua Pou)

DAY 3 · Hakahau Bay Anchorage (Ua Pou)

Photo: Sardon (Wikimedia Commons) · CC BY 3.0

Arrive 1:00 pm

Ua Pou's main harbour, a small bay behind a breakwater under the island's basalt spires. The crossing from Nuku Hiva is about 25-30 nm in open water, a close reach or beat in the trades, so leave at first light. There is room for only a few boats behind the breakwater, bow and stern anchored; keep clear of the quay for the supply ships.

• 6:30 amCross to Ua PouExpect a beat into the trade-wind swell; reef early.

4 NM · about 40 mto Hakahetau Bay (Ua Pou)

DAY 4 · Hakahetau Bay (Ua Pou)

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Arrive 10:30 am

A roomy open bay off Hakahetau village on Ua Pou's north-west coast, with the spires behind. It is the start for a waterfall walk and the village's small chocolate maker. The bay can turn rolly with small shifts in swell, and the concrete pier is surgy and slippery, so use a stern anchor on the dinghy.

2.5 NM · about 25 mto Vaiehu Bay (Ua Pou)

DAY 5 · Vaiehu Bay (Ua Pou)

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Arrive 11:00 am · leave 6:00 pm

A deep, quiet bay a few miles south of Hakahetau, often calm when the village bays roll, with good snorkelling and sea caves on either side. Landing is hard over rocks, so swim or snorkel from the boat. Rest here before leaving at dusk for the overnight passage to Hiva Oa.

• 6:00 pmOvernight passage to Hiva OaAbout 75-80 nm, mostly into the trade wind; set watches and plan to arrive in daylight.

80 NM · about 13 h 20 mto Tahauku Bay Anchorage (Atuona, Hiva Oa)

DAY 6 · Tahauku Bay Anchorage (Atuona, Hiva Oa)

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Arrive 8:30 am

A small harbour behind a breakwater near Atuona, a walk from the shops, the bank and the graves of Gauguin and Brel. It is cramped and the holding is poor, so lay bow and stern anchors with trip lines and keep clear of the supply ships' turning area. Hiva Oa anchorages are regulated zones now, so book the night on escales.gov.pf.

• 4:00 pmWalk up to the Calvary cemeteryGauguin and Brel lie a few metres apart above the bay; go late in the day.

9 NM · about 1 h 30 mto Hanamoenoa Bay (Tahuata)

DAY 7 · Hanamoenoa Bay (Tahuata)

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Arrive 11:00 am

A crescent of white sand under palms on Tahuata, about 8-9 nm from Tahauku, with clear water over sand and little swell. It is a favourite of cruisers, often with manta rays near the boats. Anchor in 5-9 m on sand, land only in small swell, and take all rubbish back with you: Tahuata has no facilities for yachts.

• 2:00 pmSwim and snorkelSnorkel along the rocks at either end of the beach and watch for mantas.

48.5 NM · about 8 h 5 mto Hanavave Bay of Virgins Anchorage (Fatu Hiva)

DAY 8 · Hanavave Bay of Virgins Anchorage (Fatu Hiva)

Photo: Sémhur (Wikimedia Commons) · CC BY-SA 3.0

Arrive 3:30 pm

Basalt spires frame a narrow valley and a village known for its carvers and tapa makers: one of the most photographed anchorages in the Pacific. The leg from Tahuata is about 45-50 nm to the south-east, into the trade wind, so leave at dawn and arrive in daylight. Anchor in more than 12 m with long scope, because strong gusts funnel down the valley, especially at night.

• 6:00 amLeave Tahuata at dawnMotor-sail if needed; there are no lights in Hanavave, so do not arrive after dark.

0.5 NM · about 5 mto Hanavave Waterfall Hike

DAY 9 · Hanavave Waterfall Hike

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Arrive 8:00 am · leave 12:00 pm

The classic Fatu Hiva walk: up the Omoa road from the village, then along a jungle path to a tall waterfall with a cool pool beneath it. Allow about an hour each way; the last stretch is rough and slippery after rain. Turn left at the carved sign after the steep hairpin on the road, and bring water and insect repellent.

• 3:00 pmCarvers and tapa in HanavaveWalk the village; trading goods such as rope or fishing gear is common, but never alcohol.

47 NM · about 7 h 50 mto Hanatefau Bay Anchorage (Tahuata)

DAY 10 · Hanatefau Bay Anchorage (Tahuata)

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Arrive 2:30 pm

A steep green bay on Tahuata's lee coast with clear water and a resident pod of dolphins. The run back north-west from Fatu Hiva, about 45 nm, is off the wind and easier than the way out. Anchor in 12-15 m on sand clear of the rocks, allow room for gusts and back-eddies, and dinghy to Hapatoni village to the south.

• 6:30 amLeave Fatu HivaA reach or run back to Tahuata in the trades.

14 NM · about 2 h 20 mto Hanamenu Bay (Hiva Oa)

DAY 11 · Hanamenu Bay (Hiva Oa)

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Arrive 11:00 am · leave 5:00 pm

A bay with no road on Hiva Oa's dry north-west corner, with a few families, old stone platforms and a freshwater spring pool. It is the jumping-off point for the overnight passage back to Nuku Hiva. Anchor on sand in about 14 m, expect some roll and a hard beach landing, and ask before visiting the spring or picking fruit.

• 5:00 pmOvernight passage to Nuku HivaAbout 85 nm north-west, downwind in the trades; plan to enter Taiohae after sunrise.

88 NM · about 14 h 40 mto Taiohae Bay Anchorage (Nuku Hiva)

DAY 12 · Taiohae Bay Anchorage (Nuku Hiva)

Photo: Sémhur (Wikimedia Commons) · CC BY-SA 4.0

Arrive 8:30 am

Back in Taiohae after the night at sea. Anchor, rest, and hand the boat back or clear out with the gendarmerie if you are leaving French Polynesia. The airport is a long drive across the island, so allow plenty of time.